Monday, January 11, 2010

a Wonder World Called Hueco

When Mike and I got to Hueco he told me he was gonna do a
double digit boulder problem every day.

-We drove into the desert with one thing on our mind 'were gonna be climbing in hueco tomorrow' blasting through the sun baked lands of Arizona and New Mexico we quickly arrived at our destination, fueled by our imaginations, I dont know how many pictures, movies, stories, legends, adrenalized our minds. The road become dirt and we pulled into the Rock Ranch, our camp for the next three weeks. Before I knew it we were warming up on the syenite porphyry, getting out first tastes. We warmed up on some not so nice classics. ok im ready lets go crush this place, where's Chablanke, where's Diaphanous Sea, where's Slash Face, where the hell is Martini. We quickly realized hueco is not the place we had quite imagined. Being forced to sit and patiently wait while your compadres huck them selves at something that is either to hard to or to easy for you. And while you wait you go over the moves in your head beating your self up for falling two days ago on the last move of your project. Lets go soon guys, you say to your self, trying to stay warm so that you can crush first go. The sun is dipping, lets move.
The first day: We had reservations for North Mountain, so north it was, We warmed up and made our way to the top of the chains, Mike and I flashed See spot run a nice crimpy tall v6 with a good landing. Just around the corner we stopped to run a few lapse on a fun v2 called nobody gets out of here alive and Ngan showed us how campusing can be so easy. Dodging a few tourists we made it the Daily Dick Dose cave, once the holds become to warm we decided we were warmed up and were ready for a challenge. We marched over to Load with power, I flashed to the two crimps got my feet up and then punted. A few minutes later more pads arrived and things got serious. I jumped on the problem for another go. crossed off the huge jug undercling to the shitty left hand crimp put my heal in and floated out to the sloper flipped the heal to a toe hook and lunged for the other nasty crimp caught it with my two middle fingers cranked it down and swung my feet over pulled down hard and SNAP, a my left hand experienced a hard jerking sensation accompanied by a muffled but distinct popping noise. I dropped down thinking did i break the hold or was that my finger, no the hold looks fine, but my finger doesn't hurt.
As you might have guessed i tore the pully on my left ring finger.
Good thing Mike sent the rig next go.
Although mike didnt do a double digit a day, he did have a really good trip!

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