Thursday, June 5, 2008

Rope climbing is good training for real climbing

'Factor 15, 13a'
Above some of the most classic
boulders in rocklands, is a beautiful
tall cliff line with many bolten routes

Sometimes its hard to do things that your not as good at, and sometimes you suprise yourself. This morning after a few days of rain I woke up and the sun was shining, beautiful day for some excelent bouldering. It was very cold and crisp. But we are supposed to go route climbing today. Man don't want to. I really want to go and work on Cedar Spine, which I feel like we have been putting off ever since we went to road crew the first day. So I went along feeling a bit sour. Trying not to affect everyone else. I warmed up on the awesome juggy Orange Plasma wall, I sat trying to get into the state I would be in for sending hard boulder problems, don't think about anythng. Clear the mind of all expectations, think only of the next move. I jumped on Factor 15 Bouldered up to the ledge clipped the first two clips and sat breathing thinking of nothing. This route was set off feeling good rested and doing every move with as little effort as possible. Before I knew it i was through all the moves and make this big reach for the crux. Just a little further and my fingers had raped around the good edge, match and its more or less over. Except for the topping out. After you slap all the way up the atete you actauly have to top the route out. it slabs out and you have to do a sort of high step scary mantle. a little jittery and a bit scared but confident that I would send. Yes my first real 5.13.

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