Wednesday, November 5, 2008

It was a draw in the end

I have been climbing in Flagstaff for about a week. I have been working on this beautiful roof called 'Cosmic Tricycle' it goes at v10. It is very complicated and requires lots of body tension. I feel like I have a lot of crimp strength right now, and this does nothing for this climb. The holds are full hand slopers and large bad pockets. So this makes it harder for me. The first day I figured out the first few moves, which happen to be the easiest moves. Second day I was able to do all the moves with some beta from the locals. Speaking of locals, it was amazing to see Sam Davis link the entire roof into a super power endurance v13, its probably 30 feet long. It links the climb I'm working on, climbing it backwards into a v11. plus some more hard moves before you even get to 'Cosmic tricycle'. I took a rest day and went and checked out the secret Kelly's canyon, a very nice collection of grippy sand stone highballs. I spent the day watching locals shoot their guns at what the call "the Pit" (not the pit which has limestone routes). and after a restless night accompanied by a series of 'Red Box' rentals, I was more than ready to send this thing. So I waited for someone to show, so I could use there pads since the cave is quite long and is very uneven. Around two o'clock Andrew showed up with his pads and we headed to the Puzzle Box roof. After a few tries on the tricycle I wasn't feeling to hot and it didn't seem like I was going to send. Andrew gave 'pink lightening' a few tries. we were both feeling tired so he decided that his knees were hurting so he took off, taking his pads with him. I gave it another try and stuck the crux, but my foot popped. A few tries of sticking the crux, I managed to get my right foot cammed into correct spot and successfully crossed to the next slopping pocket. Now unprotected I turned my head off and executed the final moves to the lip, mantled easily. I was so psyched. So glad I didn't ass rocket into the rocks below. So with my project done I tore out of the draw returned my 'red box' movies. I love this rental system. and sped off to Prescott.
 
Getting the foot cammed just before crossing to that next pocket


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