Rumney NH

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Chris on Flying Monkeys 12.c


Joe bean belaying me on 'flying hawaiian'

I have been in Rumney for a month now living in my tent with no car, just a bike to get around. I tell you biking is a great way to get in shape and build endurance, and not buying gas is a real plus. Its so buggy here that as soon as we are done climbing all I want to do is go straight to the river wash off the stink and head straight to the tent where I am safe from the constant swarming of mosquitos. The mosquitos seem to know I will be back, and they are waiting for me hoping to suck my blood while I bolt through the zipper door. In come 10 mosquitos, there is a masacre for about five minutes and then I can relax. With the fading light i put on the head lamp drink some water and sit back with a book. Oh yeah you gotta read this book. Its called 'I hope they serve beer in hell' by Tucker Max. It is amazing and very entertaining. somewhere in there I fall asleep and it starts all over again.

Simon choosing his grips carefully on flying hawaiian

Its hot, I'm breathing heavy and I'm so pumped. My legs are pumping with lactic acid and I try to push harder with them, knowing I wont need them in a second just as soon as I get something back into my arms. This convenient cave rest three quarters up the hardest route of my life is a life saver. You have to press your head and back against the lip of a small roof. Pushing with your legs trying not to pop out and end the sending. I bring my breathing down, but I'm still not ready to leave this rest, for just above me are some of the hardest moves on the route. Waving my hands trying to scoop fresh oxygen into my lair, I breathe deep close my eyes and let the blood pump through my arms into my finger tips regenerating them with power. Oh did I mention the wet under-cling over my left shoulder slowly dripping down my back, it feels kinda nice, but even constant dabbing with a chalk immediately before I grab the hold wont stop your fingers from getting wet. Ok, I shout down to Simon who has been very attentive even though I am in a no hands rest. I pull onto to the wet under-cling grab the next hold, chalk, match, chalk the other hand and dead point into the last crux. Fighting three more moves, one more move. get those feet up and I got the send. whooping I have just sent my hardest on rope.

The local airport, Rumney is in the boonies.

This is Chris Linder's dad working on 'Predator 13b'.
look hes got ninja tites on!

The amazing last sequence of predator




I am so impressed with the route climbing in Rumney. Even though this is where I learned to climb a few years ago, the difference in routes from the easy stuff is world apart. Waimea is probably the best wall at rumney. It is this amazing wave frozen in stone with perfect lines. the rolling bulges and steep beta intensive climbs are of high quality.


Its really fun being back here where I learned to climb. When I was climbing then I got to 5.11s and did one 12a then I went to california. SO the last month has been full of amazing climbs that I never could do and always looked at thinking, there is no way I can climb that. maybe some day but I guess i never thought I would get to that level. Well now I am at that level but the dreaming
never ends and the hope that I will climb the hardest lines here may become reality in the future.

'Man overboard 12d'

SO the highlights of the tick list consists of many 12s including 'aquarius, man overboard, flying monkeys, whip tide'... I am also very psyched to have sent two 8a's 'beat junkie' and 'cote d'azur'.