Saturday, June 21, 2008

The search continues, always on the other side of the boulder, maybe a line, maybe enough holds to get up the thing. but hopefuly not too much feature as to make it un interesting and easy. This seems to be the trend around rocklands. You head out searching for problems, its raining you are soaked, pants soaked, I think 'why didn't I bring rain paints? who fucking needs a rain jacket, when your walking through waist high bushes more drenched with water than the sky. Its a constant battle you spot an over hanging face up on the cliff line, maybe a series of holds aesthetic enough to climb. then you look down. Ok I gotta jump from this boulder skirt this bush, and hop to the next sand stone slab. Thus avoiding the massive drop or un passable barrier of bushes. You get there and if you were any where but rocklands, you would have just found the best problem ever. Except for your in rocklands and there are endless boulder problems out there. Always around the next corner. and the drive to find the next king line is always pressing you on to the next boulder. Skipping thousands of potentialy excellent problems that if you were to stop and put your pad down and give it a few goes, turns out you just climbed a worth while problem, by any standards.
Its been raining alot so when the clouds broke just for an afternoon two days ago we made a little trip to the Sassie Boulders. I sent this problem 'Ghosts in the darkness. V10' that I had already put two days of work into. Its an awesome roof problem, one of the longer roof problems in rocklands. It climbs for about 20 feet out a horizontal arch, on large flat holds. The first move starts with a hand jam in a splitter crack above your head. Then you press out to a flat hold throw a toe into the crack next to your hand let the hand go move your hands out onto slightly better blocks. still holding the foot you wedge the toe shoe into the crack take the other foot out and walk it over alowing you to move your right foot. anyway after a few more throws while holding some shitty heel hooks you dyno back wards cutting the entire body and holding a huge swing at the same time you swing you have to grab the other hold further out the roof and its done. Sickly complicated beta. Props to ANdy Raether for getting the first ascent.

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